In the realm of overtourism, where iconic landmarks struggle under the weight of selfie sticks and queues rival the length of famous rivers, France grapples with being a perennial favorite among global travelers. Mont Saint-Michel is besieged daily, the Eiffel Tower competes with the Seine for attention, and St Tropez is losing its true Tropezienne charm. Yet, in the midst of this frenzy, is it still possible to unearth the serene corners of the country?
Having immersed myself in France for over two years, navigating the well-trodden paths and venturing into the poetic "le trou du cul du monde" (the arse-end of nowhere), my journey has unfolded from the bustling mainstream to the tranquility sought by discerning travelers. While the allure of the quintessential "France top 10" destinations persists, I prefer not to contend for a sunlounger with the masses from South East England. Instead, let me guide you to the overlooked gems.
Enter Nancy, a pocket-sized Paris designed in the opulent style of Versailles and Place Vendome. Free from the throngs that populate the French capital, Nancy embodies a regal charm. Stanislas, grateful for being made Duke of Lorraine after his daughter's marriage to Louis XIV, rebuilt the city in gratitude. The result? A city square, Place Stanislas, adorned with golden facades reminiscent of Paris, but with an intimacy that eluded even Louis XIV during his sporadic visits. A mere 90-minute train ride from Paris, Nancy beckons as an alternative to the City of Light.
Journey further north to Luberon, where June's lavender fields draw selfie-stick-wielding influencers. Yet, just 100km away, Rochefort-en-Valdaine in the Drome offers a respite, where sleepy back roads wind through fragrant lavender fields. In the Vercors Regional Natural Park, goat's track footpaths unveil panoramic views over the purple landscape. For a different kind of elevation, Alpe d'Huez opens its arms with breathtaking mountain vistas, a serene contrast to the crowded icons.
Swap the predictable for the undiscovered, and let the humming of bees replace the click of camera shutters. In the quiet corners of France, a new adventure awaits those willing to explore beyond the well-worn trails.
Chamonix, a magnet for 2.5 million annual visitors, has become a bustling hub where even the local bars echo the familiar sounds of Peckham, London. Venture 250km south to Oz-en-Oisans, and you'll discover a haven for ice climbing, mountaineering, and the expansive 250km skiable domain of Alpe d’Huez. While Alpe d’Huez is a gem in its own right, hosting the winter Tomorrowland festival, it manages to retain its local charm, sparing you the feeling of crashing a British boarding school's ski holiday. With affordability and exceptional mountain views, this hidden Alpine retreat beckons.
In Crozon, where the weather may be less predictable, you find one of Brittany's wildest and most unspoiled corners, escaping the tourist throngs of Nice. Despite its relative inaccessibility (a car is recommended), Crozon's untouched landscapes remain a tranquil alternative. Opt for a campsite with bay views, forgo five-star hotels, and follow the fern-fronded cliff path to discover secluded silver sands, even on the sunniest days.
For those seeking the charm of age-old chateaux without the influx of British retirees found in Dordogne, Cantal in central France beckons. The landscape boasts a proliferation of ancient chateaux, including the mysterious hilltop Chateau d’Alleuze and the lakeside Chateau de Val, both dating back to the 12th and 13th centuries. Explore the bucolic countryside on hundreds of walking trails, where the symphony of mooing cows replaces the braying of fellow travelers.
In southwest France, where walled cities abound, Carcassonne stands out. While tourists flock to its historic streets, Viviers, with its 12th-century cathedral, remains a hidden gem. Steeped in history and devoid of the overwhelming crowds, Viviers offers an alternative perspective on France's medieval treasures.
Step off the beaten path and discover these hidden havens, where the essence of France unfolds away from the well-trodden tourist trails.
Nestled on the banks of the River Rhône, Viviers in the Ardèche is a charming, compact town that unfolds its allure with cobbled streets winding uphill. These pathways gracefully dive in and out of archways leading to the town's crowning glory – the 12th-century cathedral. While the cathedral stands as a testament to Viviers' enduring history since Roman times, the town itself exudes a timeless charm.
For those seeking an immersive experience, you can even choose to stay within the old cathedral complex. However, a word of caution: while the setting and views are nothing short of spectacular, the interior rooms may transport you to the ambiance of an old-fashioned asylum. It's a quirky juxtaposition of modern comfort and historical mystique.
Viviers invites you to step back in time, where each cobblestone tells a story, and the Rhône River whispers tales of centuries gone by. Explore this lesser-known gem, where the charm is compact but the history is vast.
In the tapestry of France's diverse landscapes and rich history, we've journeyed beyond the well-trodden paths, discovering hidden gems that defy the crowds and offer a more intimate connection with the country's essence.
From the Alpine allure of Oz-en-Oisans to the untamed beauty of Crozon's coastal landscapes, we've explored destinations that provide a respite from the familiar tourist haunts. Cantal, with its age-old chateaux and bucolic countryside, beckons as a tranquil alternative to the bustling Dordogne.
Viviers in the Ardèche stands as a testament to the timeless charm tucked along the banks of the Rhône. Its compact streets and the 12th-century cathedral weave a story that echoes through the ages, offering a unique retreat for those seeking history and tranquility.
As we conclude this exploration, the invitation is extended to venture beyond the ordinary, to embrace the lesser-known corners where authenticity thrives. France, with its myriad secrets, continues to inspire those willing to stray from the beaten path and discover the allure of its hidden treasures.