Discovering Hidden Gems: Unveiling Lerici, Italy's Best-Kept Secret as the Uncharted Alternative to the Cinque Terre

In the midst of a gentle evening breeze, the animated chatter of the crowd dwindled as Mishka, a charismatic tabby cat, gracefully navigated her way through the onlookers. I observed her elegant saunter towards the sea's edge, her impatience evident as she cast a glance backward. While Italians are known for their pre-dinner sunset strolls, Mishka's evening ritual added a whimsical touch to the scene. Nestled in a pastel-hued stone house on the outskirts of Tellaro, a charming village within the Lerici commune, Mishka embarks on this daily journey with her owners.

Situated in a tranquil corner of Italy with a mere population of 1,200, Tellaro shares its borders with the renowned Cinque Terre, a cluster of towns drawing in 2.4 million tourists annually. As I had positioned myself strategically on a petite rocky harbor, I marveled at Mishka's routine against the backdrop of the enchanting orange sky. Lerici, it seemed, held an unexpected allure just an hour away from the bustling Cinque Terre.

In contrast to the latter's crowded streets reminiscent of a picturesque Disneyland, Lerici embodied the essence of its more famous counterpart without the overwhelming influx of visitors. The vibrancy of colorful houses clustered closely, intertwining with narrow passageways and stone steps, painted a picturesque scene characteristic of Lerici.

Venturing further into Tellaro, a hidden gem unveiled itself, comparable to the Instagram-famous Vernazza. Despite Vernazza's dominance on social media with over half a million hashtag mentions, Tellaro maintained its modest charm with a humble count of 71,000 tags. Unlike the Cinque Terre, Lerici and its neighboring villages lacked national park status or a dedicated train station, preserving its low-key ambiance. Remarkably, Lerici welcomed exploration by car, offering a refreshing departure from the reliance on trains or walking boots that typifies the Cinque Terre experience.

While Lerici may lack the high-profile status of its more celebrated neighbor, its accessibility by car and proximity to Tellaro, only a 40-minute bus ride from La Spezia, make it a viable and less-explored alternative. As the cliffside views unfolded through the windows of a wobbly minivan en route to Tellaro, it became evident that Lerici's understated charm and tranquility were poised to captivate those seeking an authentic Italian experience off the beaten path.

Nestled between picturesque landscapes and a captivating seaside, Lerici, the gateway town of the region, unfolds like a coastal canvas, reminiscent of Monterosso, the largest among the five charming settlements that collectively form the renowned Cinque Terre. Brimming with charming shops and waterfront eateries strategically positioned along the Bay of Poets, Lerici offers a feast for the eyes, though caution is advised when selecting a lunch spot – opt for drinks to relish the maritime spectacle.

In contrast to the somewhat homogeneous feel of the Cinque Terre towns, Lerici radiates a distinct charm, crafting its own unique atmosphere enriched by a bustling cultural calendar. Regretfully, I missed the literary festival, an enchanting blend of author events and boat trips. Lerici's vibrant scene extends to a summer music festival and annual poetry gatherings, paying homage to literary giants like Keats, Shelley, and Byron, culminating in a prestigious poetry prize.

Far from exhibiting signs of tourist weariness, Lerici embraces visitors with genuine warmth, a departure from the bustling Cinque Terre. Locals exude cheerfulness, readily sharing tales of local designers and their creative endeavors in fashion, jewelry, and ceramics. The town of San Terenzo, a leisurely hour's stroll around the bay, presents Osteria La Situa, a haven for hyper-local craft beers and regional wines. Not far from this charming spot lies Villa Magni, the white stucco residence once inhabited by Percy and Mary Shelley until his untimely demise in 1822.

During my stay, Hotel il Nido became my haven, distinguished as the sole hotel in Tellaro with direct beach access. The lush green surroundings, while enchanting, do require a liberal application of insect repellent due to their midge-attracting allure. A short walk away in Fiascherino, a cove adorned with hotels and small beach resorts near DH Lawrence's former abode, offers solitude amid luxurious sunbathing options. The tranquility of Lerici, punctuated by a friendly greeting on a cliffside walk, stands in stark contrast to the crowded thoroughfares of Cinque Terre, providing a soothing balm of silence.

For those seeking a connection between Lerici and the Cinque Terre, a small ferry weaves through the coastal waters. Yet, after immersing yourself in the Bay of Poets for a couple of days, the allure of Lerici may persuade you to linger, perhaps even granting you the delightful company of Tellaro's cherished feline resident during your sunset aperitivo.

Embarking on a journey to Lerici is not just a travel itinerary; it's an adventure waiting to unfold. With convenient flights from mainland UK airports via British Airways and easyJet, you can choose to touch down in the historic cities of Genoa or Pisa. From either city, a scenic 90-minute train journey to La Spezia sets the stage for the coastal escapade that lies ahead. A short but enchanting bus ride along the sun-kissed coastline then leads you to the hidden gem of Lerici.

As your travel narrative unfolds, Hotel il Nido emerges as a haven that goes beyond the ordinary. Beyond the allure of its very own (albeit very tiny) beach, the hotel boasts a genuine commitment to indulging in Italy's cherished love affair with breakfast pastries. Picture waking up to the aroma of freshly baked delights, setting the tone for a day of exploration and seaside serenity.

Lerici, adorned with its pretty pastel-hued buildings, offers a refreshing alternative to the well-trodden path of the Cinque Terre. It beckons travelers to skip the crowds and immerse themselves in its unique charm, where every narrow alley and vibrant waterfront restaurant adds to the tapestry of the coastal experience.

Whether you choose to lounge by the sea in Tellaro, captivated by the breathtaking views captured by Getty Images, or savor Lerici's distinctive atmosphere, your journey becomes a bookmark-worthy tale. And as you contemplate the best hotels on the Amalfi Coast or engage in thought-provoking conversations with fellow Independent readers, the decision to make Lerici your chosen destination becomes a defining chapter in your travel story. So, start your Independent Premium subscription today and embark on a voyage where every moment becomes a cherished memory waiting to be revisited.

In conclusion, Lerici unveils itself as a coastal haven, beckoning intrepid travelers to bypass the familiar trails of the Cinque Terre and indulge in the allure of its own distinctive charm. With convenient flights to Genoa or Pisa and a seamless journey by train to La Spezia, the adventure begins, culminating in a short but enchanting bus ride along the captivating coastline to Lerici.

Hotel il Nido, with its intimate beach and unwavering commitment to Italy's breakfast pastry tradition, becomes a central character in this coastal escapade, offering not just accommodation but a genuine taste of local indulgence. Lerici's pretty pastel-hued buildings, captured in the lens of Getty Images, set the stage for a narrative that encourages travelers to savor each narrow alley and waterfront restaurant, creating a tapestry of unique experiences.

As you consider the best hotels on the Amalfi Coast or engage in thought-provoking conversations with fellow Independent readers, Lerici becomes more than a destination; it transforms into a bookmarked chapter in your travel story. Whether lounging by the sea in Tellaro or relishing Lerici's distinctive atmosphere, the decision to make this hidden gem your chosen haven resonates as a defining moment in your wanderlust-filled journey.

So, start your Independent Premium subscription today and embark on a voyage where Lerici, with its enchanting landscapes and warm embrace, promises not just a vacation but a collection of cherished memories waiting to be revisited and shared.