As November unfolds in Arras, even the most skeptical hearts can't deny the unmistakable signs of Christmas. The northern French city, though embraced by a biting cold, is bathed in sunlight, creating a cozy atmosphere that beckons the festive spirit. Clutching a cup of mulled wine, the air carries a delightful blend of cinnamon, roasted chestnuts, and fried churros—a quintessentially seasonal bouquet.
Amidst the backdrop of boppy Christmas jingles, a gathering of people, bundled in thick jackets and scarves, begins to swell. I seamlessly join the crowd, capturing the essence of France's unique yuletide offerings—from gingerbread men crafted from brioche to escargots stuffed with cheese or spices, conveniently vacuum-packed for those eager to bring a piece of the market home.
This excursion marks the commencement of a perfect Saturday afternoon, delving into the festive charm of one of northern France's largest yet delightfully underrated Christmas markets. Nestled beneath the border with Belgium, just south of Lille, Arras may lack the fame of its prominent neighbor, but this very fact works to my advantage. With almost double the number of wooden chalets (140 compared to Lille's 89, many showcasing local handicrafts) and only half the usual crowd, Arras offers the quintessential Christmas market experience, complete with the obligatory Christmas tree, ice-skating rink, and Ferris wheel—all within a convenient two-hour train ride from London.
Following my instinctive love for bubbles, I find myself drawn to the Champagne hut, strategically placed across from a fresh oyster stand. Priced at €7 (£6) for a glass of Champagne and €10 (£8.60) for half a dozen oysters boasting a salinity that transports me to the briny depths, there's a risk I may be content to linger in this gastronomic haven all afternoon. Yet, driven by the weekend's limited timeframe and an insatiable curiosity to explore, I press on, eager to uncover more of Arras's hidden treasures.
As daylight wanes, I transition from the bustling market in Grand’Place, the primary square, to its charming counterpart in the adjacent Place des Héros, affectionately known as 'Petite Place' among locals. Bordered by rows of immaculate Flemish-Baroque three-story townhouses, both squares exude a Dutch or Belgian ambiance, adorned with festive tinsel, baubles, and notably, oversized off-white teddy bears—an endearing touch that sets Arras apart. While boasting a larger Christmas market than Lille, Arras surprisingly hosts fewer crowds.
The picturesque scene, steeped in Continental charm, belies the city's poignant history, as Luka Antonic, the charismatic owner of Chez Marcel, a trendy beer hall, attests. With a handlebar mustache and a bushy beard, Luka paints Arras as a "phoenix rising from the flames," a reference to its resilience during the First World War when it stood on the front line. The city endured severe bombardment, leaving only 20 percent of structures intact. Subsequently, meticulous reconstruction efforts, incorporating Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles, enhanced with reinforced concrete, transformed Arras into a testament of rebirth.
My introduction to this historical backdrop occurred the previous evening at Les Diners Secrets des Boves, a seasonal pop-up dining experience situated 12 meters below street level within Arras' atmospheric medieval limestone quarries. As people above enjoyed cheesy tartiflette on Petite Place, we savored a refined four-course meal with emulsions and edible flowers, crafted by acclaimed chef Gabriel Asseman of l’Oeuf ou la Poule. Prior to this culinary delight, a brief tour of the subterranean warren unveiled its wartime significance, connected to the city's other underground tunnels by Allied soldiers, predominantly from New Zealand. This network played a crucial role in preparations for the Battle of Arras, a surprise attack on the Germans during the war.
Arras, with its dual identity as a vibrant Christmas market hub and a resilient phoenix-shaped by its historical scars, captivates visitors with its unique blend of festive cheer and enduring spirit.
The Carrière Wellington (Wellington quarry) emerges as a captivating historical treasure, beckoning both enthusiasts and novices into its depths. The following morning unfolds with a spine-tingling experience, where a meticulously crafted audio guide and silhouetted projections weave the poignant tale of the 24,000 British and Commonwealth Soldiers who sought refuge here before the 1917 battle. Devoid of boxed texts, the immersive storytelling elevates the impact, creating an indelible connection with the past. Silhouettes of soldiers etched against the cave walls evoke a powerful sense of history at Carrière Wellington.
In keeping with the city's accessibility, the quarry is within a leisurely stroll from the train station. Opting for an e-bike from the tourist office, I embark on a swift, 10-minute cycle to the expansive 17th-century UNESCO-heritage listed Citadel d’Arras. Designed by the influential French engineer Vauban, this architectural marvel sets the stage for a memorable exploration before my midday train departs on Sunday. Arras, with its compact size and vibrant energy, encapsulates the essence of small cities—alive and bustling yet easily navigable. It's, as described by local resident Luka Antonic, "a village in a city," making it an ideal destination for a French festive weekend getaway in December.
For those journeying from London, Arras is a mere two-hour rail ride away, requiring a Eurostar to Lille from St Pancras International and a transfer to the regional French TER service to Arras. Air France, easyJet, and British Airways offer flights from the UK to Paris, with a swift 50-minute connection from Paris Charles De Gaulle Airport to Arras via France's high-speed TGV network. The Mercure Arras Centre Gare Hotel, conveniently positioned just across from the train station and a brief stroll from Grand’Place, offers a colorful and clean haven for travelers. As Arras shines as France's unsung festive hotspot, its bigger Christmas market than Lille, coupled with a more intimate atmosphere, paints the perfect backdrop for a delightful holiday escape.
In conclusion, Arras unfolds as a hidden gem, blending historical richness with the festive cheer of its Christmas market, making it an ideal French weekend retreat in December. The Carrière Wellington stands as a poignant testament to the city's past, offering a spine-tingling experience for both history enthusiasts and novices alike. The immersive storytelling, devoid of boxed texts, creates a powerful connection with the 24,000 soldiers who sought refuge within its depths before the 1917 battle.
Arras's accessibility, with key attractions within easy walking or cycling distance, exemplifies the charm of small cities—vibrant yet compact. Luka Antonic's description of Arras as "a village in a city" encapsulates its unique character, making it an inviting destination for those seeking a balance between liveliness and ease of exploration.
For travelers, Arras is a mere two-hour journey from London, offering a seamless blend of Eurostar and regional French TER services. Additionally, flights from the UK to Paris, followed by a swift TGV connection from Paris Charles De Gaulle Airport, provide alternative travel options. The Mercure Arras Centre Gare Hotel, strategically located near the train station and Grand’Place, ensures a comfortable and colorful stay.
As Arras emerges as France's unsung festive hotspot, boasting a larger Christmas market than Lille with a more intimate atmosphere, it beckons with a unique blend of history, culture, and holiday spirit—an enchanting destination waiting to be discovered.